27/09/25 Taking The Long Way To Lucerne

Lucerne lay 1.5 hours by scenic train from Interlaken, past alpine lakes and over Brunig-Haseliberg pass. One of us wanted to catch the ferry to Brienz, and then the train. The other wanted the full 1.5 hours in a panoramic rail car. After much consultation with the Eurail app we did both, thus ensuring we took the longest route possible to Lucerne with a good deal of doubling back and maximum chances of stunning scenery should the weather come to the party.

The weather had not received the party invitation by the time we left, but that was offset by the discovery that the ferry was a paddle steamer similar to our ride on the Rhine but bigger. This one had a viewing well in the middle where one could, if one desired, sit and watch the gleaming pistons turn. 

Once again a sneaky diesel engine provided power to the paddles and steam blew the whistle. This time around the surrounding mountains echoed the whistle back to us, which I found most satisfying.

On to the boat we went, both of us searching for the sweet spot between seeing things and staying dry and warm. We ended up at opposite ends of the boat: Roger watched the clearing weather chase us up the valley while I saw the rain retreat before us and got damp and cold enough for my fingers to stop working altogether. Which was all my own fault because I had gloves but prioritised taking pictures.

Clearing weather behind.

Burgkirche/Burgruine Ringgenberg.

Strand Hotel, Iseltwald.

Happy man waving.

Schloss Seeburg, Iseltwald.

Grandhotel Giessbach, accessed from the lake via an historic landing stage and a cog railway. The railway was the first tourist funicular in the world andcthe first to use a water weighted propulsion system. You can read more about it here.

The sun was fully out for our arrival in Bienz. We picnicked on pastries down at the water's edge, watching life on the lake. Ferries shuttled back and forth and tourists paddled little boats on the water. There was even an opportunity to take a hot tub boat, should I have wished to simmer gently whilst floating on snow melt.

Goodbye, Lotteschberg.

The train back to Interlaken hugged the lake, showcasing the landward side of things previously seen from the water.

Burgkirche again.

We alighted at the platform in Interlaken, ran down to carriage 3, and jumped into our reserved panoramic seats for the final trip to Lucerne. First, of course, it was back along the lake. Third time's the charm, after all.

Beyond Brienz the railway wandered through stunning Swiss countryside under a postcard perfect sky dotted with cotton wool clouds. Snowcapped mountains tossed little waterfalls into the valley and the paddocks, neatly mown of this year's grass for winter hay, sported electric shades of green.

The train moved to cog mode and climbed to the top of the pass at Brunig.  From there it was all downhill to Lucerne, losing way more height than I had thought we had left.  We rattled through forest, over high bridges with glimpses of alpine lakes far below, past farmland dotted with cattle and occasional sheep.

As we got closer to Lucerne the valley widened, with gentle slopes and villages clustered in a patchwork of farmland. 

Lucerne, when we arrived,  was shockingly busy, noisy, and self important.

Our hotel sat on the edge of the old town but there was no time to explore. We had belatedly realised that it was 5pm on a Saturday and Switzerland, like Germany, was about to shut up shop and go home until Monday morning. Out we went to hunt and forage, saved from involuntary fasting by a local Denners, and making sure to stash supplies for Sunday as well.

Home for the night: Hotel Alpha.