Posts

Japan Day 28: Travel on Boats

Image
The last day in Japan started with a proper Japanese breakfast buffet, although I must confess that neither of us chose the fermented soy beans. I met a young man from Iceland at the ferry terminal. He had completed two weeks in South Korea, riding his bicycle from top to bottom, and had just arrived on the ferry to start another two weeks riding around Japan. "I met a girl from Australia," he said. "She was freezing, complaining about the cold in Korea. I said what freezing? I'm from Iceland. This is my perfect summer!"  He gave us 8000 Korean won in coin: "It's too heavy to carry around." We retaliated by offloading our remaining yen and as we waited in line for our ferry tickets he pedaled off into Japan. I hope he survived the sweltering forecast 22C. The white boat near Roger's elbow is ours. The red one could gave been ours, but it's broken. Broken boats aren't allowed to be ferries. The ferry to Busan collected a motley crew of C...

Japan Day 27: Travel on Trains

Image
Nagasaki was a long way from the centrifugal force exerted by Tokyo. The style of clothing was not quite as sharp, as super-stylish as Tokyo. Conversations on the train happened and were loud with occasional laughter. The torrents of humanity that poured through Tokyo's massive labyrinthine railway stations were replaced by herds of people who meandered at a lesser pace. The cars drove faster and used their horns more often: the pedestrians were more willing to risk life and limb by stepping onto the pedestrian crossing in the split second after the traffic light turned red and before the walk light turned green.  The covered malls were slightly less crowded. A loud, fast talking restauranteer with a huge smile lured us into his establishment with exuberant banter and an occasional word of English. He had a silver tongue, asking my age and then insisting with theatrical disbelief that I must be at least 10 years younger. I'm sure he was lying. "Hot! Hot! Hot!" He yell...

Japan Thoughts: All About Carp

Image
Akiko, the guide on our tour of Hiroshima, was passionate about her city and full of titbits of information, one of which was that Hiroshima was loudly and proudly known as 'Carp City,' and Hiroshima Castle was nicknamed 'Carp Castle'. Now all you Australians just need to take a deep breath and let go of your instinctive antagonism: that's European carp you're thinking of, wreaking havoc on Australian waterways and hoovering up everything that lives on the bottom of the river.  I'm talking about their cousins the koi carp. According to Akiko, back when Japan was closed off from the world they all got bored and bred the   Brocaded carp  which can be found in some public ponds around Horoshima and has been sold on occasion for ridiculous amounts of money. The carp was also considered a symbol of good luck, so where a live carp couldn't be found there was usually one of metal or stone. Don't be that tourist and attempt to pat a live carp. Pat this one f...

Japan Day 26: The Dutch Connection

Image
Did you know that back in the time of the Napoleonic there was a brief period where a small island in Japan was the only place in the world that the Dutch (Netherlands) flag was flown? Nope, I didnt either. As it turns out,  Dejima Island , barely 5 minutes walk from our hotel, was that place. We spent a solid couple of hours wandering around Dejima, learning all about the island and its history, and the often complicated and nuanced relationships between the Japanese and their trading partners. A model of Dejima, with some of the real thing beyond. While wanting to continue trade, Japan was serious about preventing outside contamination: Dejima was protected by a large wall with armed guards at all times. In addition to being on an island, of course. Did the Dutch get Island Fever, cooped up as they were? History is silent in that regard. An unimpressed Durchman. Late that afternoon another walk took us down to the Port where our old friend the Cunard cruise ship was still docked....